OED adj. confused (someone) so that that they have lost their bearings.
n. Inept escapades of a dropout English journo trapped in the Far East. An eighteen-month evasion from reality.

29 June 2003

Arriving in Sydney the following morning, I was whisked from the airport by college friend Richard who is spending a year working in a paediatric unit there. A leisurely breakfast in the harbour by the bridge and opera house solved my sightseeing requirements fairly rapidly leaving me with a few days to kill. These were filled by trips to the aquarium and maritime museum where I had the privilege of standing in a tunnel underneath loads of sharks, including the legendary Wobbegong, and learnt about the evolution of the Australian swimsuit. Then drank beer and ate food in similar fashion to what I'd do in London. After this came a day of playing football in the park, a similar experience to playing football anywhere else in the world. Spent the evening at the house of Sid, another college friend working for IBM. Again drank and ate food. Thanks very much indeed to the aforementioned Richard and Sid for their hospitality.

23 June 2003

The last few days have been spent diving - saw lots of fish and a couple of turtles. Managed to do almost everything wrong you can on my second dive but am still alive.

Grim British style seaside weather the case in Cairns after the end of my dive trip, and since I was getting wet anyway I decided to spend my last day whitewatering on a raft on the river. Many American noises ('whoo, yeah') but not quite as exhilarating as the trip I did on the Zambezi a few years ago. Quite good fun though despite falling in three times (I had a lifejacket). Highlight of the evening was being thrown out of a girls' dormitory for having stinking trainers. Obviously did not pull.

19 June 2003

The even longer road to Cairns, Queensland, though the bus considerably plusher. Stayed overnight at Boulia cattle station, a remote location complete with semi-feral farmer's children (one of whom defeated me at chess). Onto Winton, home of Waltzing Matilda etc etc. and on to the east coast - dramatic change in scenery from red sandy bushland to green quasi-European hills and valleys with banana and sugar cane plantations. Cairns populated mainly by backpackers and currently there are two US navy vessels (LSTs 6 and 47 for those who care) in port, leading to a 'vivid' nightlife experience at the moment if you like being groped/punched according to your gender by an entire amphibious ready group of sailors and marines.

16 June 2003

More rocks. Walked the King's Canyon in the sunshine and Kata Tjuta (The Olgas), another rock formation of huge domes. Will spare the geological explanations. Uluru (Ayers Rock) the main attraction and enjoyed an afternoon's walk around the base. Did not climb due to Aboriginal wishes - this did not deter the gang of boorish American frat boys on the bus who continued their loud and obnoxious behaviour throughout. The legendary changing of colours on the rock at sunset and sunrise did not materialise - another photo op that didn't happen. Oh well. Got on very well with yank girl Shannon who also disdained the aforementioned frat boys but didn't get any more than a cuddle and an e-mail address that didn't work.

13 June 2003

Had to be dragged out of bed by the bus driver at 6.00am Wednesday for the long road to Alice Springs - 1500km, interspersed with some trekking to waterfalls and a tour of an old gold mine. Also visited the Devil’s marbles, a formation of spectacularish egg-shaped rocks - I could explain how they were formed but not terribly interesting. Camping out with woodfires and sleeping in 'traditional' cattlemen's swags which are basically glorified canvas sleeping bags. Failed to pull saucy Czech girl back at Alice.

10 June 2003

Kakadu National Park. Driving around the wetlands looking at wildlife including numerous crocodiles (from a distance). Did the standard touristy thing and participated in an Aboriginal 'Corroboree' complete with body paint and traditional dancing etc. Enjoyable but oh so slightly twee. Went on to Ubirr, one of the largest Aboriginal rock sites open to the public and trekked to a waterfall (crocodile free) before returning to Darwin. Later read a local paper that said that pool wasn't croc free after all. Failed to pull on night out in Darwin upon return.

07 June 2003

An overnight bus to Denpasar took me to Bali, where I didn't do an awful lot except visit a few obligatory temples (quite different in style, though) and looked at normal monkeys etc. A lot of hanging around later and I was on the delayed early morning flight to Darwin, arriving at about 7.00am local today. Despite my best efforts to look respectable on the plane I nearly got the full customs treatment at the airport - unpacked bags, interrogation, 'look up so we can see your face etc.' - all the more unpleasant for the fact I'd had just 90mins sleep. I think the main trigger for suspicion may have been a pair of trainers in my bag, which may or may not have trod in something they shouldn't. Anyway, these were cleaned and disinfected by a highly qualified quarantine official and I was on my way.

04 June 2003

With the hotel virtually deserted that night, I got chatting with 'Johnny', a local English teacher. He offered to give me a lift to Java's other key monument, Prambaran, the next day. Again, no disappointment - I won't go into too much description but the main site consisted of towers dedicated to the Hindu gods Siva, Vishnu and Brahma plus their 'transports', the bull, garuda (bird-gryphon thing) and swan. I hope I got those the right way round. There were also acres of carvings of the Ramayana which the puffing, panting guide took over an hour to take me through. The absolute highlight was a selection of 'erotic' 1000-year-old reliefs from the kamasutra. I shall never forget the delicious irony of the monkey spanking his monkey. Sublime. Who said Hinduism wasn't a deep religion?

03 June 2003

Just a quickie this time. After leaving Suzanne's in Jakarta, it was back on the 'eksekutif' train to Yogyakarta in the middle of Java. 'Eksekutif' means aircon and comfortable seats but it also means karaoke ('The green green grass of home', God help me) playing at full volume until 11.30 at night and a pointless footrest that frustrates any effort to make use of the ample legroom.

From Yogya I struck out for Borobodur, site of a legendary Bhuddist monument of Angkor Wat stature. Virtually the only Westerner there, the temple did not disappoint in its intricate carvings and architectural details layered in symbolism. Unfortunately, the Indonesian school holiday had started and the place was overrun with yelping kids; at least I hadn't gone there to meditate like the elderly Thai ladies with whom I shared a guide. I even got sidetracked for half an hour by a schoolteacher who insisted I was photographed alongside each of her students - apparently few had seen a European before. especially one who looks like Luis Figo.

02 June 2003

From Medan I picked up a cheap flight to Jakarta, from where I write. From here in on, conditions have improved immensely due to the presence of schoolfriend Suzanne and her luxury designer AIRCON house in the suburbs. She's got a swimming pool and everything. This really is the life. Last night we even ate steak in Jakarta's skyscraper-top revolving restaurant. I do feel I've kind of sold out now on my backpacker credentials...

Anyway, next stop Borobodur (Yogyakarta, Java) and then onto Bali, Darwin etc.

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