It was warm within the train, but when I stepped into the alcove between carriages for a smoke, the temperature palpably dropped.
More than just condensation was forming on the windows; the vapour from hundreds of people's respiration, combined with the steam from the hot water boiler that is the lynchpin of the Chinese transport system, was crystallising on the glass in an organic filigree of fern-like frost patterns.
The train pulled into Harbin, a few hundred miles west of Vladivostok and several hundred miles north of anywhere else at about 4.30am. Never a great time to arrive anywhere, perhaps here especially. But wrapped in my ski gear, mittens, hat scarf et al, all I could feel was a mild bite on my cheeks and nose.
Upon recommendation by a friend, I sought out the railway hostel, who kept me waiting until 5.30 am before they saw fit to install me in a room. After the mei you routine with the ticket officer, who finally sold me the ticket I actually wanted after I had mistakenly asked for and had been refused everything else, I settled in for a nap.
Other than its Russian style architecture, now swamped by the typically austere edifices of industrial growth, Harbin is famed for its annual ice festival. It was to this that I turned first. Just south of the river bank, itself lined with transparent, glistening penguins, dolphins and monkeys already melting in the January sun, a small public park is the scene of the main ice festival.
The first thing that strikes you is how much there is. No connoisseur of ice carving, it surprised me that there was so much. The sculptors themselves hailed not only from China, Russia, Canda as expected but also from some truly far flung places. Places which have never seen snow: Malaysia; Burundi; the Congo. ne wonders how they ended up here, and how ideed they coped with the -10 maximum temperatures.
Aside from the artistic, the symbolic, the trite, the erotic and the obscure, there are recreations of famed buildings; one I suspect was the Tiantan Temple in Beijing; I also witnessed the Acropolis and Coliseum. Another theme was SARS, with images of the mask and the defiant fist breaking through chains of fear and misunderstanding. Occasionally, the pale sun would stretch out a beam to illuminate the sculptures; at night neon bulbs effected the same.
On the other bank of the river, across which you can gingerly walk for a token fee, a larger park boasts the snow sculpture festival. Here again there are artworks in abundances. The largest of which, at about 20m long and 10m high, represented a chariot drawn by dragons and was yet to be completed. Next largest was a bucktoothed cartoon squirrel.
With all landmarks obscured by white - some of it darkened by pollution to black - finding your way around isn't easy. But there's enough in the festival to fill a few coldened days.
Also north of the river, if you can track down the 85 bus (which desn't necessarily stop at the 85 bus stop), there's another area dedicated to the spectacle of the frozen lands. At the bus terminal, for a price a small red tricycle car will pck you up and drive you to the largest Siberian tiger reserve in the world.
The park, seemingly built on an abandoned airfield, is home to nearly 100 of the world's largest land predators. Visitors, if they feel the need, can purchase an animal to feed to the the tigers: it's 600 RMB (US$80) for a sheep but a mere 10 kwai for a duck. Fortunately, no-one appeared to be choosing to indulge in this practice, which can only modify the tigers' behaviour to become too trusting of humans.
Instead, it's best to observe the beasts from the relative safety of a breakneck minibus ride. Don't expect any bars on the windows, though the door is prevented from swinging open by an iron wedge.
Though an individual tiger's range is many times the size of the park, thus rendering it a cramped environment for them, at least the tigers have some space within their fenced-off enclosures. It's the best Asian zoo I've ever seen, for that matter.
Leaving the railway hostel was a joy, however. Not only were conditions not quite ideal: no shower; and proof that even Chinese people can miss a squat toilet was left in evidence for an entire day.
My welcome came to end on my second and last night when the staff began to insist that I paid for a third. Feigining incomprehension and stupidity I did not get out my wallet, but revenge was taken the next morning when I was turfed out at 7.30am.
Yet on the train back to Beijing, I felt that I had achieved a personal goal. I had challenged myself to visit the ends of the earth and survived. A pity that I had not been able to track down the steam trains that I had been told about in a comfortable London suburb, but no matter.
I even survived falling off the ladder while climbing into the top bunk. So the journey continues.
Posted by Sendover at January 15, 2004 11:26 PM | TrackBackAh, Harbin. I have a special place in my heart for that town, having spent a year there; I'm not sure whether I hate-but-secretly-like it, or hate-but-really-hate it; at any rate, I do enjoy Beijing more.
If you get the chance, though, check out Harbin for a day or two around June or July. It's a completely different city then, warm and in places beautiful. It's also much more comfortable than most other cities in China are in summer.
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