I travelled 200km to take out some of my own money.
Turning up in Pingyao, a smallish town in Shanxi province, on the morn of Chinese New Year was never going to be a clever idea. But, since the ancient city is known for being the birthplace of China's financial industry back in the middle of the Qing dynasty, I thought tracking down a bank wasn't going to be a problem.
Finding the site of Rishengchang, the 18th century proto Bank of China was simple enough. But a bank that would give me money? Mei You. What about Pingyao's biggest tourist hotel? Mei You. Aided by my tramplike guide, Mr Liu, I began to realise what a pickle I had got myself into in this preserved example of old China.
What about the nearest major town, Jiexiu, half an hour away by train? Mei You. The place had but one ATM and it didn't work. Mr. Liu tried a number of hotels and the main Bank of China, but Mei You, Mei You, Mei You. It wasn't even New Year's Day, but 24 hours afterwards. Nothing.
I bit the bullet and seeing off Mr Liu boarded a minibus to the provincial capital, Taiyuan. It'll go in 10 minutes, he said. It's nearly full. Best get on.
Over one and half hours later, the bus stirred into life and began creeping along at walking pace. Had it been five minutes later, I had determined to make my back to the hotel, since the last train back from Taiyuan was in just a couple of hours.
Accosted a taxi driver in the metropolis, which boasted a KFC so must have been fairly cosmopolitan. Demanding to be taken to an ATM and then the station, the driver regaled me loudly and I assume rudely for the entire ride.
First ATM. Mei You. My card didn't work. Second ATM broken. Third ATM... third time lucky. I had been down to my last 100 RMB with no other way of getting money. Two hours on the train back to Pingyao and collapsed in the hotel at about 9.30pm.
This notwithstanding, Pingyao is a delightful town. It's how China, picture-postcard, romanticised-historical China, should look. Narrow cobbled streets, few cars, vernacular courtyard architecture no building higher than 15m and that's the city tower. With Mr Liu, who proved a fair guide and didn't even try to cheat me, I self-consciously stepped into a few of these abodes and made stilted conversation with the residents.
Pingyao's lack of development makes it a refreshing change from the remainder of manically overdeveloping China. The lack of modernity means that life there is similar to that in the hutongs of Beijing. It may be nice to wander around as a tourist, but to the residents it's open outdoor communal toilets (3 jiao if you wish to piss in a hole in the ground I haven't cleaned for a month, dear. Thankyou). With no plumbing and temperatures well below zero, the effluence of hundreds of cooking pots was building up as volcanoes of brown ice around the street drains.
In other words, the place is a slum.
Still, it's a picturesque and photogenic slum. A jaunt around the 6km city wall was highly rewarding, as was my visit to the town's ancient ceremonial and civic buildings, Yaman, complete with prison and a display of torture instruments.
Inexplicably, the nearby city temple devoted a large section to models of various flourescent demons implementing these devices in unspeakable ways on naked papier mache people. Grisly.
Pingyao has to be the highlight of the tour so far, and despite inconveniences Spring Festival was a great time to be there. Everywhere old buildings were resplendent with red lanterns and small boys dashed around letting off big firecrackers. I wonder how many blow their hands off at this time of year.
The people were generally friendlier and less inclined to cheat than others I have encountered, and I'll even excuse the woman who stole an unlit cigarette from my mouth.
Next stop - Shijiazhuang.
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