Everewhere in the world, 1 May, Labour Day, is a time for celebration or protest. In Tibet it was the day the government and army take over the tourist attractions for jollies.
The situation was exacerbated further by the fact that our erstwhile guide, Samuel, discovered that his license had expired in April. Without this we were not allowed inside the Potala Palace.
While this was being sorted out, we diverted to the Jokhang temple. Inside, the low-ceilinged candlelit darkness offered a taste of what we were to see for the rest of the trip. Bundles of monk's garments were strewn carefully on the floor, guarded by a variety of Buddhas and Avalokitesvaras.
Outside fulfilled expectation of unchanged theocratic Tibet. The devout prostrated full-flat on the ground, theor hands protected by wooden clapper boards which they struck before they fell. Some, evidenced by the grimy bruises on their foreheads, may have been doing this for miles.
Others, mainly walnut-faced women clad in the reddish-brown hues of the Tibetan soil shuffled clockwise around the Barkhor square surrounding the temple, murmuring mantras as they span their hand-held prayer wheels.
Between two columns of prayer flags was an unassuming underground cellar; a glimpse inside revealed a thousand candles flickering in the gloom. By the entrances cleaners clinked and fussed as they wiped the black, smoky film from brass candleholders.
It was a scene that could have been placed at any point in the last millenium. There wasn't even a McDonalds.
Due to some crafty negotiation by Sinophone Swede Frederick, we were able to gain access to the Potala Palace. We passed the scuttling crowds and spinning the thousands of prayer wheels occupying the walls around the building and ascended the hill upon which the white and brown palace is set.
Led by the anonymous backup guide no.2, we were shown the unoccupied throne of the Dalai Lama, plus stupas containing the remains of his predecessors all surrounded by thousands upon thousands of the boxed and sealed scriptures that lined the walls.
The way was lit by pungent candles, not the stick-like kind but trays filled with yak butter and interspersed with wicks for the flames. These, we were told, were to guide the way of souls visiting the halls.
Aside from the spiritual essence of of the living Buddha, the Palace was also populated by rat-catching cats and trainee kitten tied to the window frames with string.
They in turn were watched over by steely-eyed Han Chinese guards, determined to assert their presence in this most symbolic of places. None of them had removed their hats as a sign of respect as visitors wre instructed to do; it was as if they were making a statement of ownership.
When in Tibet, do as the Tibetans do. Against the advice of the guides we opted for a Tibetan dinner and were duly driven an hour out of the city to a dusty village. Here we were treated to yak butter tea of both the sweet and palatable kind and the salty and wince-and-spit variety.
The yak meat was predictably inedible and altitude sickness was beginning to take its toll. My appetite was waning and my head was pounding.
Another hour of hellish bumping and shuddering on the uneven road back and I'd had it. I was not the only one to be suffering; Alida, the Swedish lady had not emerged from her room for two days and Frederick had also had a hospital visit.
Escorted to a clinic, I was jabbed in the arse with glucose and then attached to a drip and oxygen cylinder for an hour. "Wrap up warmer," clucked the admonishing nurse. Yeah right, as if being 3700m above sea level isn't the reason. So far so good.
(Mum - looks much worse than it really was.)
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