This picture sums it up. Simona having a marvellous time, me stricken with headache, fatigue, dizziness and a malaise removed from altitude sickness itself, a sense of foreboding.
Lacking appetite for breakfast, a restoratory packet of M&Ms was sufficient to perk me up enough to board the Toyota Land Cruisers for the next leg of the journey to Gyantse.
Packed into the vehicle with Frederick the tall Swede, his tall wife Yongyan and a surly driver it was on to the highway. Minutes out of Lhasa we were subjected to two checkpoints: first by the army; second by the police just a kilometre down the road. The military presence in Tibet is subdued but hard to miss; you can't forget what kind of state you're in, at least near the major cities.
The tarmac petered out soon enough dirt track winding past the squat and square Tibetan dwellings dotted around the barren countryside. A few months ago, there was a smattering of press reports concerning missions to Mars. They could have saved their money. It's here.
Tibet is a Mars-scape, elevated thousands of metres above and thousands of kilometres from the rest of the world. It's difficult to see how anything can survive in this ferrous red wasteland, but evidently it does.
All but a Toyota Land Cruiser, which conked out after two hours of juddering road. No walkie talkies, medical kits or mechanical spares in sight. We were on our own.
Fortunately the other vehicles in the convoy picked us up, though after a misunderstanding I had to tramp two hundred metres in the deoxygenated air to retreive my cameras from the breakdown. Felt like two thousand. Simona's careless mishandling of my Pentax further blackened my mood, hence the photo.
At least I felt better than Frederick, also going down with the altitude. Halfway through the juddering, bone-shaking, brain rattling journey he was heard to cry: "Just get me out of this place, I don't want to die here." Some holiday.
But no pain no gain. Far from urban influence we were visiting one of the least visited places on Earth. Beside us ebbed the crystalline Yamdroktso Lake, crystalline and spiritual in its purity; before us rose the first snowy hint of the Himalayas. Tibetans regard this as a holy place; let hope it is spared the damnation of the planned dam.
At the Semola pass, a glacial patch on one of the mountains glittered in the sunlight while a spider-like edifice of prayerflags whipped and cracked in the wind. Meanwhile, women demanded payment for photographing their yaks; the scenery changes but some things never will.
Gyantse, an unremarkable hole of a town. Feeling in need of a haircut I ventured into the hotel barbers for a crop and found myself having to give instructions on how to use scissors and clippers. Clearly the staff had never done it before; "what do you think this is, a barbers' shop or something?"
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