Surrounded by hilltop fortifications, a small wall of China, Gyantse's Kumbum stupa is perhaps the largest of its kind in Tibet. Stationed beside is a monk employed to wash vistors hands with yellow water (?) from a large teapot. Explanations in the comments section, please.
In the temple by the stupa are more and more Avalokitesvaras and Tibetan thankas, cloth murals hung in a building for good luck. As in the Potala, the walls of each of the sub-shrines are lined with hundreds of boxed sanskrit scrolls pigeonholed into the wall.
Devotees stoop and creep along the low passageway beneath the scrolls; to walk under such learning bestows further qualities of the mind.
A short and painless drive from Gyantse is Shigatse, and perhaps the foremost remaining highlight of the Buddhism trail.
Along the way, the usually soporised Guide Mk.2 told a perhaps aprocryphal story of Tibet's killer yaks. "The normal wild yak, the domardic," he explained, "just eats grass. But in the mountians there is the wild duong. It's been known to eat meat. If you see one coming you lie down and look small. It's the only way to avoid it."
At Shigatse, the Tashilhunpo monastry is the sprawling domain of the Panchen Lama. Despite the inevitable droves of other tourists, it is here that that you finally feel you are in Tibet.
Yellow hat monks adorned with the oversized plumes of their order go about their business in a labyrinthine complex of mediaeval alleys and passageways. Circles of them sit in the courtyard oblivious to the foreign presence while they prepare tomorrow's offering of yak-butter candles, representing the eternal cycle sun and moon. The smell, not unlike rancid cooking oil pervades every corner.
Besides the thrones and stupas of the Panchen Lamas, the monastry also boasts the world's largest Maitreya, or 'Future' Buddha, a golden effigy smiling enigmatically over the onlookers below.
Despite the nagging altitude headache, I felt I was here.
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