Illness aside, we had been remarkably lucky. The peak of Everest is generally only visible for three weeks every year. Today was the third in a row we had had the privilege of looking at the highest point on Earth, 8848m above sea level. Perhaps there is such a thing as karma, or the dao, after all.
The day's ride from Base Camp to the border took us across almost every environment imaginable. Bouldered desert valleys, punctuated by sparse grey tufts of vegetation. Snowy plains, fording shallow streams in four-wheel-drive mode; one mistake and game over. Past the peaks of the Himalayas, Everest fading into the background, Sheshi Bangma taking its place. Then finally into Balkanesque forested valleys plummetting steeply to the green-blue-white of the foaming rivers at the trough.
From nothing, conifers appeared, and made way for deciduous trees within the space of a couple of hours. The vehicles paused under a waterfall for an impromptu carwash and continued to Zhengmu, the final call in Tibet.
The border town improbably clings to the side of the near-vertical hill, winding its way around hairpin bends. Different ethnic groups, languages and cultures mingle together; Tibetan, Han Chinese and Nepali all together in the illicit bustle and confusion of the final outpost.
We pushed past the trucks, already too wide for the narrow streets for a last night in Tibet. And as the altititude decreased so the sickness lifted only to be replaced with the most familiar travel ailment of all...
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