They say that to live in China you need to get out once in a while. So we did.
But for a possible misunderstanding involving our Malysian friend Dilph - who may have been mistaken for an escaping Chinese dissident and was nearly impounded - the border crossing was relatively smooth.
If only this could be said for the road, which was in an unadvanced stage of reconstruction. The landcruisers were called on to do their 4WD drive thing once again, and for the last 500 metres our bags were carried by an army of youths.
Welcoming us literally with open arms was the new guide, Shree, whose bubbling enthusiasm was at first a welcome change but eventually began to grate.
Some examples from the bus journey to Kathmandu...
Me: "Can you explain some differences between Hinduism and Buddhism?"
Shree: "Yes, please. In Hinduism there is Brahma, the creator, Vishnu the preserver and Shiva the destroyer..."
Me: "What's that river?"
Shree: "Yes, please. It is a very holy river. In Hinduism there is Brahma, the creator, Vishnu the preserver and Shiva the destroyer..."
Shree: "Observe! On your right there is a temple. In Hinduism there is Brahma, the creator, Vishnu the preserver and Shiva the destroyer..."
Me: "What time will we get to Kathmandu?"
Shree: "Yes, please. In Hinduism there is Brahma, the creator, Vishnu the preserver and Shiva the destroyer... So you must not worry about these earthly things."
Get the drift?
I mock, but the journey was an exquisite treat. In stark contrast to barren Tibet we drove through lush, emerald valleys, past a bungee jump, a wedding party and countless farms and farmers.
Kathmandu was the riot of the traffic, dust, malingering cows, sounds and smells that I'm used to from my experiences in India as a boy. It felt like I was there again, coming full circle from where I started in November 2002 - the Khmer civilisation of Cambodia - and on to the temples of Borobodur and Prambaram in Java, the Cham cultures of Laos and Vietnam, the conflict of old and new in China and the cradle of Buddhist culture in Tibet.
It was an ephiphany of sorts. I must get back to India soon.
Another epipahny was the Hyatt Hotel. Fantastic. Especially after a week of characterless food and accomodation in Tibet. In my enthusiasm I watched BBC for three hours (bizarrely seeing old acquaintance David Mulholland from Jane's and former Oxford college Master Sir Roger Bannister at Pembroke among other things).
There was even a disco and a cover band.
The Prime Minister of Nepal had resigned just as we had arrived; another factor in the mix of an eventful trip.
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