DisOrientated - A Weblog by Philip Sen - A Couple More Days in Nepal

May 09, 2004

A Couple More Days in Nepal - Three

Simona had seen them in of all things an Enigma video, and had been talking about them for months. Today we finally saw them.

The eyes.

The eyes of truth. The compassionate eyes of the Buddha. They adorn the top of the Bouddhanath, at 36m one of the largest stupas in Asia, and therefore the world since Asia is the only place they build stupas. The Nepal tourism website tells you it's said to "entomb the remains of a Kasyap sage venerable both to Buddhists and Hindus."

The eyes peer at you with a creepy ambience from each side of the monument, whether sunlit or shaded; the question mark between the eyes (the thing that looks like a nose in the picture) invites you to question yourself.

As in the Barkhor at Lhasa, the devoted clap, mutter and prostrate themselves. Prayer flags cut across the sky like the washing lines of nirvana.

Unfortunately the Bouddhanath is also surrounded by souvenir shops which took up a lot more of our (Simona's) time. Arriving at the hotel to find a message from the tour company, we phoned immediately.

They said they'd booked us on indirect flights to Shanghai via Bangkok. Could we pay $300 each please?

What?

A few angry calls between Kathmandu and the tour company in Shanghai sorted out the situation, but the fact that they even dared to suggest that we pay for the tickets that they themselves had failed to book a fortnight ago when we paid the fee was beyond comprehension.

Kathmandu's primitive airport received us shortly afterwards, and despite a near scuffle with the zealous security personnel who confiscated my clearly Maoist-terrorism linked Duracell batteries, we boarded the plane.

Business class to Bangkok (the only tickets they could get). The pilot thoughtfully elected to tell us during the approach that he had offloaded some of the baggage because he was worried that he wouldn't be able to take off.

And just as the plane touched down for my sixth visit to BKK International Aiport, my bowels exploded. Faintly embarrassing as I ran through business class and dived into the toilet.

Posted by Sendover at May 9, 2004 06:25 PM | TrackBack

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