China's had a few capital cities in its time, and about 1,000 years ago the title went to a place in modern-day Henan province.
Today Kaifeng is a refreshingly quiet city, compared to the urban mayhem of Shanghai at least.
In the north east corner can be found its main attraction, Tie Ta, the 'Iron Pagoda'. It's not in fact made of iron at all but glazed tiles, each of which is decorated with Buddhist carvings. Surrounding the pagoda is a park, complete with a boating lake and lily-covered ponds around which dragonflies go about their business.
Kaifeng is one of the few places with a surviving city wall, though it's not maintained as a tourist attraction. Scrambling through the undergrowth in Tie Ta park I was able to climb the earth mound that backs up the wall, but couldn't for the life of me figure out how to get to the other side.
Elsewhere in Kaifeng are a couble of notable temples - for example Da Xiangguo Si, the highlight of which is an octagonal building lined with picaresque statues in storytelling mode. At the centre is a gold-covered sculpture of Guanyin, the thousand arms arrayed around the four-sided figure like angel's wings.
Just outside the city wall near the train station is Fan Ta, a much older stone building again covered with Buddha images within and without.
However, but for another temple and a dreary museum dedicated to Liu Shaoqing, one of the also-rans of Chinese politics, there's not a lot to do. Due to the frustrations of the train system I was stuck there for two days, only one of which could be filled by sightseeing.
On Friday afternoon I happened on a very tastefully decorated cafe which served milkshakes, steak sandwiches and other Western type items. While I was there I spotted one other foreigner in Kaifeng, who I presume was the owner or manager of the cafe.
I often wonder how these people end up in lesser known places like Kaifeng. It's like the American couple I came across in Qingdao who were running a small TexMex restaurant. What possesses them to set up shop in places like this - do they really do good business there? Of course, not everyone wants to hang out in Shanghai and Beijing and I don't blame them at all. But it seems bizarre where foreigners sometimes settle, especially given the lack of foreign tourists outside the main attractions.
Posted by Sendover at August 6, 2004 05:11 PM | TrackBackVery nice description of your trip to Kaifeng. May I suggest you include few pics of your trip? Would be neat to see what you've described in words.
P.S. I quite liked the photos you took. Especially al the B&Ws. Some of the photos in the China gallery are neat too.
Posted by: nirmalya at August 9, 2004 02:22 AMThanks for your thoughts - I'm waiting to get the pictures developed but am planning to acquire a digital camera soon so that I can speed the process!
Posted by: Sendover at August 9, 2004 10:43 AMAs for national day holiday, no I wouldn't recommend Kaifeng that much since there's only really one day's worth of sightseeing there. I had intended to go from Kaifeng to Luoyang and the Shaolin monastery nearby, but various things held me back. That might be a better itinerary for you.
But if you are going to travel in national holiday, be warned that you will almost certainly have to travel hard seat or coach at some point in your trip (I had to do a 20 hour stint from Qingdao last year) unless you plan to fly. I'll let you decide whether it's worth the discomfort!
I'm working on scanning all the photos from August but you can take a sneak preview at http://www.philip-sen.com/kaifeng.html
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